mini metal lathe

by:Gewinn     2020-06-04
Drive the power drill bit into a small metal lathe with precision speed control.
I used several broken power tools on this mini bed to drive the parts.
It has powerful motor and small size.
Speed control hackers are shown in step 5.
The video shows the function speed test of the lathe.
As the speed increases, the vibration of the motor coupling is very obvious.
\\ I added another video in more adjustment steps.
I\'m starting to think that in the next round of adjustments, I need a laser burner to make the splitter tool holder.
This structure needs some special projects.
Support blocks are from VXB.
The model of the roller bearing is VXB.
COM part number 608ZZ.
Yes, I know these are not cone bearings (ideal choice)
But they do work for this app.
Flexible motor coupling and rubber spider from PrincessAuto.
Com I used the 12 v DC motor of the black and double layer cordless weed trimmer and I used the speed change switch of Milwaukee 18 v Li-
The ID of the ion cordless electric drill shaft support block is inch inches and you need to drill/drill to 7/8 inch for the skateboard bearing.
This is gradually completed with the increase in the size of the drill bit and hand drill.
The bearing is set to be flush with one side of the block and tightened in place, and the tail stand is an inch backhole bit that will run in reverse.
The shaft on the drill bit is inches and the size of the bearing inner ring is increased to 5/16 inch using a copper adapter.
This is a friction fit shaft and you have done it.
The drive side is a flexible coupler that works with a 5/16 bar.
The Flex coupler is threaded to accept the rod, and then two hex nuts are placed on the shaft to make the spacing.
You may need to add a gasket to clean the gap.
The shaft is then fed through the bearing and the assembly is clamped with nylon locking nut.
Components should be tight but not bound.
Place the tail stand in place and hold the bolts close to the place.
I have placed two additional angle brackets between the bearing blocks as tool holders.
Now it\'s time to do a 3-
A 4-claw Chuck is shown in my pocket lathe instructions.
You need to know how to weld or weld.
First select an inch Fender washing machine.
This is the bottom plate of the chuck.
You now need a 5/16 nut and a fixed screw half an inch long.
Place the fixing screw in the nut so that the bevel is protruding enough to place the nut in the inches hole of the Fender washer.
The NUT should be flat on the gasket and do not move around the hole.
Put the nut in place.
Remove the fixing screw and flip the assembly.
Place an inch hex nut at the exact center of the washing machine and place three 5/16 hex nuts around the inch hex nut.
Weld the 5/16 hex nut in place and remove the half inch hex nut.
Remove any slag with a wire brush and finish as needed.
I chose plain color and painted it in pure black.
Install three fixed screws 5/16 long and now you have a 3-Jaw chuck.
You may want to use a threaded locker on the fixing screws.
Be sure to tighten the screws completely before using the chuck.
The lathe will be thrown at full speed and high speed. Play safe. . .
I highly recommend the speed control of this motor.
It will rotate very fast without a guard, which will be a safety hazard.
You will need trigger components for cordless power tools.
Best not Lee-
Ion types, because these types can work easily due to the safety circuitry inside the switch.
I quickly assembled a clamping mechanism with some scrap, as shown in the figure, in pinch c-
The clip will work for this.
The drill I used had a blown motor but the switch was still good.
Because this is a Li-
There is a control circuit in the ion type tool switch.
The thin lines shown inside the larger wires are used for this control circuit.
I put the battery matching plug on the battery and determined that the control circuit is 3.
The reverse polarity is 6 v.
That means you need a little Lee.
To make this switch work, the Ion battery connects red to the negative and black to the positive.
Hold the switch and squeeze to adjust the power as needed.
The switch has a steering bar and if your motor is running clockwise the Chuck will not stay on the threaded shaft, so the twist direction will correct this.
Run the motor in order to tighten the Chuck to the shaft by rotating force.
I put a quick fixture together to allow the speed to be set at the desired level and then free your hands.
I used a small section of the Bosch pipe and some 5/6 bolts.
The switch is glued to the pipe and a lever is welded together from the debris.
The adjustment is done with a 5/6 screw rod connector, tightening the connector to squeeze the trigger, increasing the speed of the motor, while releasing the connector to release the trigger, the speed is reduced.
In the case of no tension on the trigger, the power supply stops.
I had previously hacked a motion sensor for the switch and the main control panel had a 3. 6 Li-
Ion battery as backup source.
I use this to trick the switch to work.
Now, when the power supply is connected, the switch gives the motor variable power to control the speed.
The power inlet line is the same as the control electrical route, all at the bottom of the trigger.
The motor is directly connected to the terminal at the top of the trigger.
I would like to use a 12 v power supply for this project but need a power supply over 10A.
To achieve this, I have connected two 5 V power supplies in series.
Supply allows the output to be adjusted through a small pot.
I got the 11 v I had.
Yes, it will run on the battery, but it will run out for about 20 minutes of continuous use.
For the sake of safety, you may want to place a safety guard on the rotating motor and shaft.
I process aluminum with metal archives and high speed cutting tools.
This is done at a fairly low drying speed.
The tool taken out of the workpiece is 1/4-20 bolt.
The motor coupling I use is a terrible balancing device and I have to use C-Clamp.
I am currently working on a better knife clip for more precise cutting.
This is a long step with lots of pictures.
You need a 5 inch long of 1 inch × 1/8 of steel. as a base.
You can use a slightly longer piece if you have one, and I will explain this part later.
You need 2 6 inch 5/16 bolts and a 8 inch 5/16 bolt which is full length threaded.
You also need 11 nuts of 5/16.
First drill out 8 nuts with a 5/16 bit to remove the thread.
Grind a plane on 4 holes slightly.
Place 3 drilling nuts on the 6 inch bolt and screw them completely on the normal nut.
Place 2 of the drill nut on the 8 inch bolt.
As shown in the figure, place the bolts on the steel bar and weld the 6 end nuts to the steel bar.
Alignment of bolts is critical and must be as parallel as possible.
Make sure that the ground part of the 2 center nuts on the 6 inch bolt is facing the plate.
Do not Weld 4 drilled nuts on 6 inch bolts as these need to move freely and these nuts will later be called sliding nuts.
Remove the 8 inch bolt.
Grind the surface of a 5/16 nut slightly, then weld the nut in the center, and a square piece of reinforced material keeps the surface of the nut parallel to the edge, the ground instead places this small plate nut sideways at the center of the previously welded workpiece, and then feeds the 8 inch bolt back into the workpiece, passing through the nut on the smaller workpiece.
Make sure the extended thread of the center Bolt is facing to the right.
This is the key to later use.
Place the upper part in the center of the 6 inch bolt, then move the sliding nut to the corner of the 1 inch bolt and carefully weld them to the 1 inch plate to ensure that they are not welded to the bolt.
Test the small plate to move freely along the sliding bolt of 5/16.
It may be a bit tight, but it will work and move freely as long as your sliding bolt is parallel.
You may have to hit the center Bolt with a hammer to break any slag on the Bolt.
If the sliding bolt is not completely parallel, the head of the 6 inch bolts is not welded in place in order to play a little role.
Cut the end of the 6 inch bolt but not the 8 inch bolt.
The 8 inch bolt is the regulator Bolt.
This whole process needs to be repeated using 1/4 bolts.
You need 6 sliding nuts, two 1/4 bolts and a 3 inch bolt that is threaded all the way.
Make the 1/4 slide nut the same way as before using the 1/4 bit.
Grind a plane on 4 holes slightly.
Place 2 sliding nuts on each 2 1/4 Bolt and thread the nut all the way.
Place 2 sliding nuts flat to the ground on the 3 inch bolt, align the bolts on the upper plate at right angles with the 5/16 slide.
Make sure the ground of the sliding nut is flat down.
Carefully hit the 6 end nuts in the appropriate position and let the sliding nut be used for free.
Remove the center Bolt and round the head.
Flush the sliding bolt with the brazing nut.
Place the thread nut in the center between the 1/4 slides.
Pass the center bolt through the nut, the thread extends to you, and the lower regulator Bolt extends to the right. .
Here is the bolt on your regulator.
Take a small piece of stick with just sliding bolts, this is the plate above.
The drill and counter drill out the exact center of the upper plate.
Place the board in the center of the upper slider.
Align the sliding nuts so that they are about 1/4 apart along the center of the upper plate edge.
Brake the center nut through the eh back hole.
Make sure the welding is in place and the thread regulator moves freely.
Then put the slip nut in place.
Free test of operation.
Finish the top plate bu brazing 4 small heads 10-
24 bolts of 1 inch to the corner, thread side up.
The clip is a small piece of aluminum with 4 holes drilled on it.
This is held with standard 10. 24 nuts.
This tool is a clip on the board that is caught on the place.
The regulator bolts need to be firmly locked but not bound.
I used the locking nut and the threaded rod joint for the lower regulator.
This is drilled and fixed in the appropriate place.
I didn\'t have a roll so I used a small nail and cut it off.
The upper regulator has 3 standard nuts installed on the thread and then welded it in place.
As a final step, I welded the 4 Fender washers to the bottom plate in order to clamp onto the lathe.
It is consistent with the standard t-nuts.
Due to the height of the tool rack, I painted it black and I had to adjust the height of the motor by drilling holes for the bracket.
I then had to increase the height of the drive bearing block, but put a 1/4 aluminum gasket under the support block.
More importantly, I removed the foil tape from the motor shaft and pressed a small section of 1/4 copper pipe on the shaft, then I use the new machine tool bracket to accurately install the tube in the motor coupling that greatly reduces vibration.
Please note that the cutting tool looks upside down and this is done due to no store opening at four o\'clock A. M.
The cutting tool is too thick to contact the shaft correctly, so it is mounted upside down and the motor is run in reverse to get the correct cutting.
I have made some updates to the first lathe since it was released.
Unfortunately, the beautiful one has been knocked down.
I want to improve the operation when the first function is normal.
I added a second bearing to the spindle and the Chuck has a soft clamping claw.
The motor coupling is still generating some vibration.
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