sawmill from 12\" bandsaw and a mower

by:Gewinn     2020-02-14
This will be my first note and it seems that I have never taken a photo before the project is completed; -(
Please comment and ask you these questions! ! !
I have a camp 29 miles from the edge of civilization and therefore need to use my resources instead of driving back and forth to get anything.
You plan ahead before departure.
Not enough beer? 58 miles. No propane? 58 miles. . .
You see.
Things get worse when you have to hang a trailer or take a big truck because you need more wood to do some small projects or build a barn.
So, with a lot of logs, I need to make the wood myself.
I \'ve seen countless ways to make Band saw machines, but why not use almost everything I need instead of building from scratch?
The Saw I am going to cut is a craftsman 12 \"band saw.
This means that the wheel holding the belt is 12 \".
It already has all the rollers, alignment adjustments, pulleys, etc. we\'ll need.
I will adjust it a little for strength and longevity.
I will convert to a gas engine, so we will remove the electrical equipment and save money for another project. The truth? I\'m cheap.
Maybe frugal.
Wife said nuts (
Depends on when you ask her. .
But still need a mill.
My best friend?
Sales of thrift stores, garbage dumps and courtyards.
The whole premise of our property is that we do almost everything ourselves;
Understand and understand each stage of the project and equipment and create a beautiful work farm with as little money as possible.
We demonstrate that you can do this without liability.
I found a double wide house that was almost free, and when I built the barn and living area at one end of it, it needed a temporary camp job, a backhoe and grade tractor, there was also a dump truck that cost only a small amount of money.
I can spend thousands of dollars on a new mill, thousands of dollars on someone else\'s design, or hundreds of dollars on designing and building my own mill.
So: Let\'s take a look: There is already a workshop band saw. . . . . a band saw, so? ? ?
I have to make an adjustable bracket for a track system to fix the saw.
Able to lift to cut plates of different sizes.
Connect the gasoline engine in some way to run it.
Handle System for control and safety.
I bought a used 12 \"band saw from the yard sale for $100. 00. . .
But keep in mind that we don\'t use the appliance so you can find it cheaper if it doesn\'t work. . .
Just make sure the wheel and the east are fine, otherwise you will spend money to fix it before you use it!
I found 2 end stands 16\' for commercial shelves for free \'(
If it\'s free, it\'s for me)
It\'s absolutely convenient to clear skills!
I have a 13hp Honda 2 Cylinder water cooled engine on a mower and I will take it apart. . .
This is a 2 cylinder, electric start, very quiet.
The mower will provide a bunch of parts, joint systems with, throttle and electrical controls, ready-made Hood (
It\'s so cool for the saw! )
It may even be the driving system of the car.
I bought it for 50 bucks because it needed a starter for Honda and it was expensive! (
I found a second-hand one on the Internet.
Bay for 40 dollars
About a few million feet of good iron, some lighter support, and more.
The box pipe of the saw bracket 4 Jack is used for lifting various pulleys, nuts, bolts, etc. of the saw.
I will describe it when I go;
Remember that your building will be unique, so be prepared for the \"dump dog\", a good friend with talent and a strong back; -)(
My friend Scotty is my friend and I really appreciate his help).
I\'m not going to list all the tools I use and this thing will be 40 pages!
You will never have enough tools, but here is a starting point and tools. . . ALL OF THEM!
Oh, you might borrow a few more. Welder.
I use my Miller 200 wire feed but a good stick welder is good.
All kinds of grinding machines, tools, etc.
Good straight edges, level, Square first aid gloves, safety glasses, etc, so you don\'t have to use the said first aid kit. . . safety first (
Or second, if you like to go to E. R.
Band-Aid, loss of vision, etc. )Here I go.
The wood work Band saw is a vertical saw, and while I can move the log to make it work, I need to put it on the side.
I threw away everything on the table and on the table.
The actual workspace is only around 7 \"so I have to expand it to accommodate quite a large log like 16-
18 \", the cutting depth is good at 12\", so in theory I can cut 12x12.
I don\'t have any bigger logs or Poles than this in Florida, so why is it bigger.
Once lengthened, I will go and cut the wood on a larger blade instead of finishing the work.
I have to figure out how to install a gas engine.
There are two reasons why I can\'t use the motor.
First, I am not on the power line, why should I run a gas engine on the generator to power it.
Second, my blade is \"worse\" than the better one, the teeth are almost an inch apart, huge!
The original 3/4-horsepower motor gave up.
I have to build a solid railway system.
Establish a log installation/volume setting for leveling, maintaining stability, and helping to turn the log.
Build a cradle for the saw that will roll on the rails and be designed as a lift saw.
Install it on something or add an axis so we can move it if I decide. 1.
The local lawn mower shop is a great place to look for small engines.
Although you can buy Chinese clones from places such as port shipping, once you have more than 6-
They become very expensive.
Many lawn mower rides are scrapped due to deck rot but still have a perfect 10-20 hp engine.
They are electric start-up and can be purchased almost free of charge.
You can do a job even if they are horizontal and not vertical.
Most stores have a lot more stores than they can stand;
Smile, put on your oldest dress and look poor!
When you\'re there, ask if you can go through their old mower and you might see the pulley, the lever or who knows what.
Remember to write down the brand, model and any other information you can get from the donor;
This will help if you need to replace the part! ! ! ! ! 2.
Yard sales, local Craigslist ads, and even Facebook pages have great deals.
You don\'t think you\'re wasting your time when you find a one-week deal! 3.
When trying to keep the box tube track straight while extending, first cut only the opposite angle, then clamp the angle iron and weld only to each angle on one side!
Then, swing the blade through the slot to complete the cutting on the other side.
It\'s like a fixture when you wear out.
Remember to warp when you finish welding.
Weld the relative angle a bit at a time to reduce it. 4.
1 \"a big source of the angle iron is the old bed frame.
The old one is made of horn.
The new one is just tin. 5.
Keep in mind that during the build process, you can see all over the place what you have been trying to solve.
While writing this, I came up with the wheel idea of the railway system. 6.
I saw a bunch of instructures and youtube videos taken after the build and they had to cut, modify, remake
Design completed.
Model, big head nail, spread it all out before you weld it.
Think about it in advance so that you won\'t have a headache in the future. 7.
I cut firewood here.
If you find some trash around that works, remember that they may wear, break, or break something else.
I hope all of this can be fixed easily and quickly.
All the parts I get are easy to get and easy to fix.
Don\'t get some old crap, build it with your ass, abuse it, and then have to redesign the whole unit later to fix it.
If you start with an inferior suit
You can\'t expect it to be alive!
My first step was to cut off a very good saw, which, in my opinion, is much better than jumping off a very good plane for entertainment or being slapped with a dead fish face.
I will remove the motor, blade and wire when we refuel.
Then I will remove the table.
Because it is heavy, I will leave it on the base and make the cut plan for the extension part easier.
As you can see, there are many advantages to using an existing saw.
The wheel is very large in size and comes with a sealed bearing, which has been designed to align the regulator and even has a blade tension regulator with gauge.
In addition, it has an adjustable blade guide, so when cutting smaller plates, you can turn off the length of the blade exposure to make the cut more accurate.
When you plan this section, plan your entire cutting area and how your guide will move, how much \"meat\" you have to attach your extension, then sit back and rethink it 10 times before you chop it up! ! !
As you can see from the picture, I did not use the Hint 3 from the previous page.
Because I have a metal cutting band saw.
I made sure the tube was straight and chopped it up!
This special saw has a box tube as its \"backbone \".
The size of the tubing is weird and not available, so I just used a slightly smaller tube and then added the angle iron outside to increase the strength.
Because I used an existing saw with a spec tag, it was easy to order the blade online once I extended it to 12.
I just added 12 \"(times 2)
Order blade from spectrum supply: Woodmaster CLength-Feet: 9 -Inch: 5-
1/2 \"wide x thick x TPI: 1\" x 0. 035 x 1.
These blades are reasonably priced (
About $15 each)
Can be manufactured with any length and various configurations you need.
I also have to cut off the mower.
Be sure to have a drink and think about it for a while first and you don\'t want to get it wrong and then try to figure out how to fix your problem.
Since your may be different, I will not go into the mower in detail.
In the next steps you will see how I cut and use a lot of stuff.
My track setup will consist of a 16\' section shelf support.
These are the types used by large box stores.
Reinforced at both ends, very strong.
They are already Square, so don\'t worry about starting tracking.
I mainly cut the wall nails, 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, some 4x4 for the fence, maybe 6x6 for the barn post. .
They are usually less than 12 \'.
One of my sections allows cutting that long, but I would like to cut to 16\', so I will make a connectable extension for longer plates.
Since I didn\'t make any changes, I didn\'t take a good picture of the actual track. It is;
As you will see the standard end of the commercial shelves.
The reason I chose it was because it was free and luckily it had an outside facing channel so I could put a wheel on top and a guide wheel in the slot, in order to track more directly.
Sometimes the best plans change.
A local boatman is revising their building and I rate them
The beams will be stronger and longer.
So, hundreds of dollars worth of I-
The beam to the scrap yard is better.
Because the logs I\'m going to cut are heavy, I plan to strengthen my track, but now I can use these I-
And don\'t have.
Also, they are longer so I don\'t have to expand.
This is the place where you have to play with your design a little bit. Or a lot.
Many beers were found empty before the final idea began to gel.
Here we start: your cradle will carry everything, the engine, the tank and the tank, the battery, and of course the real saw.
This adds a bunch of weight.
I \'ve seen a bunch of saws made with two elevators or cables and pulleys at home, but remember the weight you have to move?
The fourth one is better than the two.
I chose to use a trailer Jack with a 17 \"lift, so if the saw weighs 300 pounds, only 75 kilograms per Jack. . .
Less wear and easier to turn the handle.
I purchased these new ones for about $70 because I want them to be the same so they move the same amount each time they rotate the handle.
Also, since they will be welded, I don\'t want to wear out too quickly that I have used.
These are all supplied by tractors with a 17 \"vertical stroke.
I will have a handle to control all Four Jacks and connect with the chain.
In this way, all will move and remain level at the same speed.
To get the wheels on the cradle, I looked for solid wheels that could withstand the beating, but most of the wheels I saw with brackets and bearings were ridiculously expensive.
It is very important to shop here.
I spent 8 dollars in the local lawn mower shop to find a solid hard wheel;
Just a deck wheel for a mower!
I then put them on my lathe and cut a flat surface to achieve them so they can slide smoothly on the rails in case they are not completely round.
Then I took a piece of 3 \"angle iron and welded two nuts on it and then slid the bolts over the wheel and ta da!
This applies not only to vertical wheels, but also to guide wheels and pads for Jacks!
Be sure to keep the shaft lubricated, no problem! Another beer!
Guide wheels are just cheap 4 \"wheels with brackets supplied by tractors, remember they don\'t have weight so it doesn\'t have to be expensive.
The actual cradle must be strong, but it must also be quite narrow so that it does not take up too many tracks.
I decided to simulate the saw on the block on the rail to see where it was sitting.
As you can see in the picture, the cradle in its first model is on the rails with a set of jacks.
To keep the square, we also installed a temporary bracket in front of the 2x2 box.
OK, I have a cradle with a saw on it. . .
Now, I have to mate with them and start to calculate the height of the trip, the decoration of everything. . .
I started with milk boxes and cardboard to get the height of the saw, and then I fixed the engine in place to plan the drive belt and Jack gap.
In your build process, you have to make sure that your saw is horizontal at all times (
Side to side and front and rear)
Or you have to adjust it later.
If not, your blade will either climb out of your wound (up)
That way you will never have a real board.
It\'s easier now than trying to change later.
Yes, you can use the Jack level, but all the places down or up don\'t match, so the travel length is affected.
I connect the front and rear jacks with a thick wall tube to make sure there is space between the chain and the gear gap.
Now that the jacks are in place, I need to connect the chain drive between them to lift and lower the assembly.
I am trying my best to build the whole machine in order to live a long life. . .
So I bought 40 chains at the Tractor Supply Company and the gears, gear wheels are all too heavy but should last for a long time.
I purchased this chain in bulk, two 10\' rolls and also a chain breaker for easy sizing.
I use the main link to connect the ends of each section after cutting them into length.
I remove the handle from the jack, which is where the hub fits.
I opened the gear for the drive Jack, and the other three slid two on the interval for the chain to clean up.
Then I weld the gear to the hub and slide on the jack.
They are fixed with fixed screws.
After they were all in place, I welded the handle assembly to the top of the drive Jack.
After the first turn, I realized that the crank was either too short or too hard, so I cut off the mower steering shaft, took off the handle and replaced it with the steering wheel.
What\'s the difference, use another part of the mower again!
I also use the old bag accessory bracket of the mower as our push handle. Note! ! ! ! !
It is easier to get the chain ready before installing the Jack, because if you are 1/4 away from the chain, it may be too loose or too tight for you to turn the handle. OOOps!
Thankfully, I was able to cut the staples and adjust the Jack a little to tighten the chain.
Because the pressure on the chain is very small, stretching should not be a problem, if so, I can adjust it by taking out half a link.
Note a picture with a dashboard and a picture with a tank. . .
Laugh at it over and over again. . .
Or are you laughing at me?
I also have controls and more to add. . .
The engine sits in the back, the exhaust faces back, in the middle of the saw, so I\'ll put the tank on the outside as much as I can.
I will put the battery next to it and the control panel is in the middle area so I can use the existing harness and control cable for the throttle and clutch.
I even use a lawn mower cover to silence the sound and it looks cool.
I made a bracket for the fuel tank with scrap bed rack horn and welded it to the saw rack by adding a small piece of box tube to use the mower battery tray.
For the comfort and safety of the operator, I added a 3/4 pipe to the exhaust extension to divert down and stay away from the control area.
My model allows me to adjust the distance etc.
So I hope I can use the original engine and clutch control.
The clutch and throttle are controlled by the cable, so I really don\'t want to search the aftermarket.
I moved the engine stand close enough to use two factory cables, which again made the replacement easy.
Because the engine is the opposite of the original configuration of the control, I have to extend the harness.
Don\'t be afraid if you have.
There are 7 wires, all color coded, so after I remove the tape, I cut them down and splice them in a few feet so everything can be reached.
If you are worried that your connection will go wrong, you can have one wire at a time.
Since this is a mower, the blade won\'t engage if you don\'t sit down.
So, it\'s easy for me to convert the electric seat switch to a die-pressing switch.
I used a boat kill switch attached to the tether so you can connect to yourself.
If you stumble or need to go around the saw, the whole saw will turn off if you are too far away from the controller or too close to the blade. SAFETY FIRST! ! !
OK so I have to make a system of belts, pulleys and bearings to convert the engine motion to move the blades.
I removed the original pulley from the motor.
I then measured from the motor to determine the depth of the saw housing hole.
I wanted to make this part stronger so I chose a pillow block of 3/4.
I machined the end of the stick to fit the original drive wheel from the motor.
Then, once we have roughly aligned the belt, we nail a piece of angular iron on the shell.
Once we got it installed, I bought a pulley that would allow my blade to move at the right speed and make a lot of throttle adjustments.
I want my blade to run at about 4000 feet per minute (yup, 45 mph! )
Since the motor speed is 1740 rpm and my mower engine speed is 3600, I reduce the speed to about 2000 and use a pulley that can easily turn the pulley to 1740, that is 3000 fpm, I can adjust the throttle to find the different wood density.
The throttle of the mower engine is adjustable, so whatever speed I choose, the governor can stay there unless the load becomes large.
The old belt of the mower is cut to a certain length so that I can go to the mower shop to buy the perfect length belt.
A simple tightening device on the lawn mower deck sets the tension.
As you can see, I tried different ways of placing controls and failed at first. . .
The model is priceless!
This can last up to ten steps, but your design will be different, so I\'ll jump some forward.
I can use so many mowers and saws, which is amazing, it actually stays in a fairly simple state despite the complexity it looks like.
The mower provides fuel tanks for coolant/lubricants, controllers and electricity, engines and cowl.
The Saw has all the parts I have to design from scratch, both of which are well known brands and the manufacturer can provide replacement parts at any time.
This means that almost everything on this saw can be simply purchased as a replacement without having to make something new when something fails.
I added a small air compressor, and I blew off the sawdust with a set of air horns, which included the coolant connected to the \"Y\", so the Air Force coolant, under pressure, cooling and cleaning blades at the same time is a bit like a mini pressure washer.
The coolant flow is regulated by a simple valve in the line that flows out of the tank.
I set up a temporary log cradle under the saw and threw a 10 \"pole 6\' long on it.
My first test cut was trying to climb out of the log, which was caused by interference when I aligned the blade.
I found out how sensitive the blade is to metal parts. . .
After ten seconds, kerf disappeared.
Thankfully I bought more than one blade so learned the lesson.
Clarence, you need some permission!
The interference took the blade out of my blade in less than ten seconds.
Replace the blade again
Adjustment tracking, I made it, my first cut was perfect, my second cut was 9/64 thick (
Thinner than the diameter of the pencil)6\' long.
It is less than a quarter thick from the band saw to the mower.
The accuracy is amazing and the performance is perfect. . .
And the price of TV is less than a good price!
My final rail system will be in another manual.
My total cost is less than $750.
00, good for strong sawmill, easy to fix. Please note;
Without the help of a great friend Scotty, I could not have done this, and his ridicule and heavy work made the project interesting.
Hope you enjoyed my first note!
Please take care of me a lot and vote for me!
I don\'t know if I can correct a typo or any other issue after I post. . .
I will let you know in the comments!
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